Once your hide is deemed worthy and has been trimmed up, it’s time to flesh. These areas can be hard to work and it’s best to just get rid of them right off the bat. Next, trim off any dangly bits and the very thickest part of the neck. Unless all you want to make is lashing, a holey hide is not ideal. Look out for knife marks that penetrate into the gray layer between the flesh and skin. Lacerations that don’t go all the way through the hide can become holes later. Learning how to tan a hide is a lot of work, and it doesn’t make sense to undertake this effort if you’re starting out with a poor-quality hide. The first four steps we listed above prepare your hide to be worked. Preparing your hide for tanning: Evaluating, Trimming, Fleshing and Soaking Your arms: strong, or ready to become strong.Punky (half-rotten) wood: 5-15 gallons of evenly punky wood, or a combination of punky wood and fir boughs. ![]() Wringing pole: a smooth strong stick of very hard wood 2-3 inches in diameter and 3-5 feet in length broken tool handles work well for this.Wringing beam: a pole lashed to 2 trees works well.Three beading needles and beading thread.Cable: 5 feet of ⅛ inch steel cable and 2 cable clamps.Fat: ¼ cup olive oil or rendered bear fat.A dozen egg yolks will work in place of the brains, but brains are slightly superior. ![]()
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